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Question regarding the acrylic window panes for the pod cover and Spoolbox.spoolbox.

I was wondering what thickness I want to use. I could not find anything where it stated the thickness of the acrylic pieces should be. I was also looking at some online services here in the USA that I could have printed/cut them for me. But I need to provide the desired thickness of the sheets. So if you could let me know what I need to request or look to purchase, I would greatly appreciate it.

One place I am looking at has the following options:

0.063"

0.214" (5.4 mm)

0.375" (9.5mm)

I purchased the elegoo century carbon drawer, but the modified poop shoot was not in my download. The Canvas cable is in the way. I see that they say it is fixed and should be in the files, but they are not in mine. I bought it about 2 weeks ago. Any ideas where I can get it?

Thank you all,

Gary Riley

Any concern about the panda breath heating right over the ptfe tubes and usb cables on the tool heads. Anyone been running this a bit have any real world experience?

Built two DRWR's (LEDs are installed but haven't yet set up the ESP32). To make them stay seated, I made custom rubber feet with a pad ring, then just used some 3M Thin Double Sided Clear Adhesive Tape.

EDIT:

Print Files here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1799509-stacking-feet-for-snapmaker-u1-for-double-cc3d-drw

On the underside is a plate holder from Printables... holds four plates.

I have added some small and some big changes. For the small, I added hinges that allow the front door to fully open. I wish I had done that sooner. I added a tilting screen as the stock one has always bothered me. I added blackout gloss plexi for the side windows on the tophat, and smoked plexi the for the front panes. For bigger changes, I have implemented a project by Damian Borkowski that runs on an ESP32 with a 3.5" screen. It controls a fan with an iris lens (controlled by a mini servo motor) that I incorporated into the tophat. I will include a picture of that below. It has the capability of controlling the Panda Breath although I am using klipper to control that for now. It has a status bar that plays very unique effects for different statuses and there is a library of effects…

Off topic and please remove if not allowed, but has anyone seen this printer that will be on kickstarter soon. It looks like a great price for early supporters. I do not know about the company though. Thoughts? https://infimech.com/products/infimech-mx-series-vip-reservation?variant=52339064963374&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24085949192&gbraid=0AAAABAHU5IqTYGsNrOWxi5Q6UE4ONIUpb&gclid=CjwKCAjwj7HTBhBiEiwA8s35OrdL5OZDChy3KYqqOFdGcXzvvHAmmVW9IoyoTM6HCIQeFjYP7pBV4RoC35QQAvD_BwE

Well it’s taken forever but I’m almost done with the pod build. However I’m struggling with the upper back corner pieces. I finally got an near flawless print of them and realized the edges aren’t true. The edges that attach to the back plate aren’t straight and curve inwards toward the piece causing a gap. Is this caused by external changes in room temp that ironically would be solved by an enclosure or something else?im printing these on the u1 have found I have to print these piece at about 100 mms or slower or I get z banding. I’m using pla as a interface layer which solves my wall overhang issues. But I’m at a loss on this. You can’t even tell till you try to put it together.

I am using 2 ACE pros on one of my Snapmaker U1s and I just added this to them and it has saved multiple 20+hour prints. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1286770-ams-2-pro-saver-snag-cutter-v5-0#profileId-3028951 Would it be possible to incorporate it in with the Spool Box?

Anyone having this issue? It's consistent on the #1 head. I'm out of town right now, but I'll be tearing into the extruder when I get home. It has never jammed, and goes right back to printing when I clear the error, so I'm also thinking about looking into the feeder.